On this week-long tour, you will explore the mighty Monte Rosa Massif, climb five 4,000-meter peaks, enjoy the flair of Italian huts, admire breath-taking summit views and spend the night at the highest hut in the Alps, the Margherita Refuge at 4,554 m. During this tour you will experience the Monte Rosa Massif at its very best.
Experience of simple alpine tours required; Terrain: moderately steep with short steeper rock, ice and firn sections; Alpine technique: beginner/basic course or similar basic knowledge
Duration from 7 to 9 hours, up to approx. 1,500 vertical meters, approx. 350 vertical meters per hour.
3 - 5 participants per mountain guide
11:15 a.m. at Zermatt train station (train arrival 11.14. Zermatt train station)
approx. 3 p.m. Zermatt
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- Guiding and supervision by a mountain guide
- Accommodation with half board: 4 x huts (base camp)
- Rental equipment
- Eiger Extreme Hardshell Jacket to test
- 15% discount on mammut.com
- Travel to the course (parking fee CHF 15.50 per day)
- Transport (mountain rail travel approx. CHF 117.- and EUR 49.-)
- Snacks and drinks
Day 1Individual arrival in Zermatt. Welcome and information about the course schedule provided by the mountain guide. Distribution of rental equipment. Travel by mountain railway to Trockener Steg. Short ascent to the hut. Rock/ice training in the area around the Gandegg Hut. Welcome drinks and dinner.
Day 2Comfortable travel by rail to the Klein Matterhorn 3,883 m. Via the Breithorn Plateau, you will climb the Breithorn 4,164 m – the first peak. Descent via the Verra Glacier to the cozy Mezzalama Refuge, located high above the Champoluc Valley.
Day 3Descent from the Mezzalama Hut down into the Ayas Valley to Résy and via Bettaforcla to the valley of Gressoney. A pleasant ride upwards by rail and then onwards across the Endre Glacier to the cozy Mantova Hut at 3,480 m.
Day 4Day four is summit day: across the Lys Glacier to the Vincent Pyramid 4,215 m and shortly after that via Balmenhorn 4,167 m to Ludwigshöhe 4,341 m. At Lysjoch 4,151 m, you'll cross the border again and climb via the Grenz Glacier to Signalkuppe 4,554 m, the location of the highest hut in the Alps, the Margherita Refuge. And should you not be able to sleep: the sea of lights across Turin is breathtaking at night.
Day 5After breakfast, onwards over the mighty Grenz Glacier to the Monte Rosa Hut. After a substantial rest, onwards over the Gorner Glacier to Rotenboden. You will then travel by train back to Zermatt, where this incredible tour ends.
Our mountain guide will bring the ordered rental equipment to the meeting place. The following equipment can be rented:
- Climbing harness with 1x safelock carabiner
- Ice axe
- Crampons with ABS
- Eiger Extreme Hardshell Jacket
- Climbing harness with 2 screwgate Carabinners and 1 Prusik
- Ice axe
- Crampons with ABS
- Backpack approx. 30l with rain cover
- Gaiter (optional)
- 1x Hardshell jacket and pants (wind- and waterproof)
- 1x Mountaineering or trekking pants
- 1x Soft shell and/or fleece jacket
- 1x Short/long functional underwear
- 1x Cap/headband and 1x hat
- 2 pairs of gloves (1 thin pair, 1 warm, windproof and waterproof pair)
- 1x Functional socks and 1x spare socks
- Mountaineering shoes (at least ankle-deep, hard sole)
- Own toiletries, ear plugs if required
- clothes to wear in the hut (Minimum)
- Sleeping bag liner made of silk or cotton (for hygienic reasons)
- Protective masks (2 masks for each overnight stay)
- SAC/Alpine Club member card (if avalaible)
- Breakfast and dinner at the hut
- Tea an lunch must be brought or can be bought at the hut
- Snacks (e.g. energy bars, dried fruit, dried meat)
- Sun cream and lip cream (SPF 30 or higher)
- Camera and binoculars (optional)
- half fare travelcard (if existing)
- Thermos flask made from break-proof material
- headlamp with new batteries
- Small medicinal supplies for personal requirements